FOR A GREAT SPRING SHOW: Get off the couch and plant flower bulbs now!
Today, autumnal, rainy, gray, and cold. Tomorrow, blue skies again, almost warm sunshine, and afternoon coffee wrapped up in the garden. The garden is really coming alive again—colorful leaves, vibrant dahlias, asters, autumn anemones, rose hips, and the last roses. Admittedly, it's really hard to get ahead of ourselves right now (we always want to be in the moment) and focus on spring (especially when you're just shaking your head as you climb over the gingerbread to the supermarket checkout). Autumn is whispering persistently in our ears that it's time to hunker down.
But WAIT! Outsmart him! Before things get too cozy, I'm sending you back to the garden – and I promise you'll thank me sooooo much in a few months (yes, I'm waiting for your emails!!!). When little green heads peek out from the dreary earth in the bare garden and assert themselves against the gray-on-gray sky (now I understand why green is the color of hope!!!), then you'll know it was worth every effort. And here, too, the rule applies: go big or go home for joy!
Simply get out into the garden and bring spring into your home. To do this, you'll need to get your fingernails in the soil and diligently plant flower bulbs. Whether in the bed or in pots (see info!) is up to you. Here are the most important facts for you. 1. PLANTING FLOWER BULBS Now (October and November) is the time (but you can also plant until December, provided the ground isn't frozen). The bulbs shouldn't be planted too early. Ideally, the soil should already be cool, and the air temperatures should also signal the arrival of the cold season. Only then will root growth begin, reducing the risk of the bulbs rotting in the soil. And the cold gives them the signal to prepare for the next spring. As a rule of thumb, the planting depth should be two to three times the size of the bulb. But don't stress too much about it. The bulbs are smart and have "extending roots" that can adjust the depth in both directions. As a guideline, you can also remember to plant three times the size of the bulb as the distance between the plants. Plant best in loose, humus-rich soil; if you have heavy clay soil, mix in a bit of sand. It's very important to avoid waterlogging. Ideally, work in a bit of compost or organic fertilizer. Pointed end up, round end down.
PINK TREASURE – If you want to have it in your garden this spring, click HERE . Two important thoughts: Remember that flower bulbs need to get their nutrients from their leaves for the following year. Therefore, always allow the leaves to wilt completely (unlike the flowers, which can be cut off so that the plant saves itself the energy of producing seeds and instead plants the flowers in the bulb). This, however, means that it doesn't necessarily look pretty. So: Plant so that emerging perennials cover up the unsightly parts with their new, fresh leaves. For me, columbines, peonies and catnip do the job. It looks better if it is not planted too regularly. Ideally in odd-numbered groups. And to make it look completely natural (for spring meadows, for example), simply throw the bulbs and plant them wherever they land.
Tulip " Katinka " 2. FLOWER BULBS CARE Whether snowdrops, crocuses, daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, crown imperials, or ornamental onions – it's a matter of taste, of course. Personally, I'm always delighted by the very first signs of spring, like snowdrops and crocuses, and then I marvel at the incredible variety and splendor of daffodils and tulips. And look – there are soooo beautiful daffodils these days – so it doesn't always have to be the classic daffodil.
Also in white: Narcissus " Acropolis " bulbs are fairly easy to care for. Once in the ground, they take care of themselves completely until after flowering. Most come back every year and/or reproduce if they feel comfortable. They appreciate a little nourishment in spring (when the first leaves sprout) and reward you with vibrant blooms. An organic long-term fertilizer is recommended here. Unfortunately, the more spectacular a tulip is, for example, fringed tulips or parrot tulips, the less likely it is that it will accompany you for many years. Many tulips only produce one large flowering bulb. The rest are smaller bulblets that then take several years to develop into fully flowering flowers. Therefore, they usually become smaller from year to year and eventually disappear completely. The best thing to do is stock up on a few tulip bulbs each year.
An enchanting mix – 50 flower bulbs in the Cottage Garden Mix 3. LOCATION When looking for the right location, choose a sunny spot rather than a shady one. But! Since most spring-flowering plants bloom before the first leaves appear on the trees, locations shaded in summer by dense canopies of leaves are also suitable. Whether in the middle of the lawn, in a flower bed, or in a pot is a matter of space and taste. 4. THE ENEMY IN MY BED Unfortunately, flower bulbs (especially tulips) are an absolute favorite winter feast for voles (I discovered this the hard way after planting 800 bulbs a few years ago – these little rodents' hunger was insatiable). To avoid this disappointment, line the soil depression generously with close-meshed wire, plant in planting trays or directly in the pot. Or plant crown imperials ! Not only are they rejected, but they also drive away the pests.
I also have some unusual crown imperials for you – not in yellow or orange this time. Interested? Then click HERE . And voles will ignore them. 5. POTTERED BULBS This year, most of my bulbs are going in pots. I'll simply plant them in the flowerbed in the spring (tricked, vole!). There are a few things to keep in mind to ensure your planting will be as enjoyable as possible.
- The larger the pot, the happier the onions. And clay pots are better than plastic ones (always visually!), as they allow moisture to escape more easily and reduce the risk of waterlogging.
- Be sure to ensure that the water can drain away. Good drainage, such as with pottery shards or pebbles, is very important. You can place the pots on feet; this also prevents frost from below. Claus Dalby's ultimate tip: Plant the bulbs, water them once, then cover them. Only in spring, when the first shoots appear, can the cover be removed and watered.
- A little sand under the bulb prevents rot.
- Ideally, you'll have a place where the pots will stay cool and protected over the "real" winter—a greenhouse, garage, or garden shed. Once watered, the bulbs don't really need any more water until spring. It's also ideal to bury the pots in the autumn leaf pile. Complete freezing is important to avoid.
Taiwan also grows beautifully in pots. Simply click on the images to access the bulb treasures !
Crocus Ard Schenk
Silk Road
PS And if you are still looking for the perfect digging garden helper, I have just the right thing for you:
Onion planter
And now: snuggle up, drink tea and wait with anticipation. Photos: Janina Laszlo, FAM, Florapress, Seila Malo
